Repointing Brickwork: A Practical UK Homeowner’s Guide

Brickwork is built to last, but the mortar between the bricks does not last forever. Rain, frost, wind and decades of movement gradually wear it away. If you have noticed gaps, crumbly joints or damp patches on an outside wall, it may be time to look at repointing.

It is one of those jobs that can look fairly simple from the pavement. In reality, good repointing is careful, skilled work. The right mortar, the right depth of preparation and a tidy finish all matter. Done well, it protects the wall and keeps the character of the property intact. Done poorly, it can look patchy and may create avoidable problems later.

What is repointing?

Repointing means removing deteriorated mortar from the joints between bricks and replacing it with fresh mortar. It is not the same as rebuilding a wall or simply smearing mortar over the surface. A bricklayer should rake out loose or damaged mortar to an appropriate depth, clean the joints, then press in new mortar and finish it to suit the existing brickwork.

The aim is to keep water out of the wall while allowing the bricks and mortar to behave as they should. On older homes especially, getting that balance right is important.

Signs your brickwork may need attention

A close look on a dry day is usually more useful than judging the wall from the other side of the road. You may need a bricklayer to inspect the area if you notice:

• Mortar joints that are cracked, loose, recessed or missing.
• Fine gaps around individual bricks.
• Brick faces that are beginning to flake or break away.
• Damp patches on an internal wall that correspond with damaged external brickwork.
• Loose debris collecting beneath the wall after wind or rain.
• Small plants growing from open joints.
• Previous patch repairs that are a noticeably different colour or texture.

Not every crack means the whole wall needs repointing. A local repair can be enough where the issue is contained. Equally, if several elevations are deteriorating, repeatedly patching isolated spots can become false economy. Ask the contractor to explain the extent they recommend and why.

Repointing, brick repair or something more?

If a wall is leaning, bulging, badly cracked or shedding bricks, do not treat it as a cosmetic job. Get appropriate professional advice promptly. Repointing alone will not solve an underlying movement issue.

Choosing the right mortar

The mortar needs to suit the building. This is particularly important for period properties, including many Victorian and Edwardian homes. Older, softer bricks were commonly built with lime-based mortar. Using a hard cement-rich mix on soft historic brickwork can trap moisture or put pressure on the brick faces instead of allowing the mortar to do its job.

That does not mean every older wall automatically needs the same mix, and it does not mean modern properties cannot use cement-based mortar. The practical point is that a good contractor should assess the bricks, existing mortar and exposure of the wall before recommending a mix.

• Lime mortar: often considered for older or softer brickwork; it is generally more flexible and breathable.
• Cement-based mortar: commonly used on many newer, harder brick walls where it is compatible with the construction.
• Colour-matched mortar: helps repairs sit naturally within the existing wall rather than appearing as bright new stripes.

Ask to see a small sample area before committing to a large elevation. It is a sensible way to agree colour, joint profile and overall appearance.

Which pointing finish should you choose?

There are several joint profiles, and the best choice often depends on the age and style of the property. A flush finish sits close to the brick face. Recessed pointing is set slightly back. Weather-struck and tuck pointing are more decorative and may suit particular period details.

You do not need to become an expert in every pointing style. You do need to be clear about the finish you expect. Take photographs of the existing good areas of wall and include them when asking for quotes. If your home is listed or in a conservation area, check whether there are any restrictions or local expectations before work begins.

How much does repointing cost in the UK?

Costs vary widely by access, wall condition, mortar type, property height and the amount of preparation needed. As a broad guide, small local repairs may run from a few hundred pounds, while repointing a larger elevation can move into the low thousands. Scaffolding, difficult access, chimney work, brick replacement and specialist lime mortar can all add to the total.

It is better to compare like-for-like written quotations than focus only on the headline number. A cheap quote that allows little preparation, no access provision or a vague “patch as required” scope may not represent the same job.

What a clear quote should include

• The exact walls, chimney sections or areas included.
• Whether the work is localised repairs or a full elevation.
• How existing mortar will be removed and how dust will be managed.
• The proposed mortar type and whether colour matching is included.
• Any brick replacement, crack repairs or cleaning allowed for.
• Scaffolding, protection to windows and planting, and waste removal.
• The joint finish and whether a sample panel will be produced.
• Estimated start date, duration, payment schedule and any warranty offered.

Questions to ask a bricklayer

• Have you worked on homes of a similar age and brick type?
• Do you recommend lime mortar, cement-based mortar or another mix here, and why?
• Will you replace damaged bricks before repointing?
• How will you avoid damaging surrounding brick faces?
• Can you show examples of similar completed work?
• Will the quote include access equipment and clearing up?
• What could change the price once work starts?

Trust your instincts here. A reliable tradesperson should be comfortable explaining the work in plain English. They should not pressure you into a full-house job without showing why each area needs it.

Preparing your home for the work

Repointing can be dusty and noisy, especially while old mortar is being removed. Move pots, furniture and cars away from the work area where possible. Keep windows closed during dustier stages and let neighbours know if access, scaffolding or shared boundaries could be affected.

If the wall is near a driveway, side passage or garden, agree access arrangements before the team arrives. A little planning avoids the usual awkwardness on day one.

FAQs

Can I repoint brickwork myself?

Very small cosmetic repairs may be manageable for an experienced DIYer, but matching mortar and avoiding damage to bricks takes care. For large areas, period homes, high-level work or walls with damp and movement concerns, a specialist bricklayer is the safer choice.

How long does repointing take?

A small repair may take a day or two. A full elevation can take longer, particularly where access equipment, weather protection or curing time is needed. Your contractor should give a realistic programme once they have seen the property.

Can repointing be done in winter?

Weather matters. Mortar should not be applied in unsuitable freezing, very wet or very hot conditions. A contractor may need to schedule around the forecast or protect the work while it cures.

Will repointing solve damp?

It can help where failed mortar is allowing rain into the wall, but damp has many possible causes. Gutters, roof defects, plumbing leaks, bridging and ventilation issues may also need investigation.

Find the right bricklayer for your home

Good repointing is a practical investment in the condition and appearance of your property. Take a few clear photographs, ask for detailed written quotes and make sure the proposed mortar suits the home rather than just the quickest route to a finish.

When you are ready, use Construction Mate to find trusted local bricklayers and brickwork specialists for repointing, brick repairs and exterior wall maintenance near you.